Choosing wood that burns the hottest means more heat per log, longer burn times and lower fuel costs over a full heating season. In the UK, the practical answer differs from the theoretical one because several of the world's hottest-burning species are simply not available here. This guide ranks the wood you can actually buy in the UK by heat output, explains what drives the difference, and shows why moisture content matters as much as species choice. Quick Answer Oak burns the hottest of all widely available firewood species in the UK, producing approximately 28 million BTU per cord at low moisture content. Hornbeam is denser and burns slightly hotter but is rarely available commercially. Ash is the most practical high-heat alternative at around 24 million BTU per cord, combining strong heat output with easier lighting than oak. What Makes Wood Burn Hot? Two factors determine how much warmth a log delivers. Getting both right is the difference between a fire that heats a room and one that smoulders. Wood density: why denser wood produces more heat Heat output is measured in BTU per cord. BTU figures reflect how much combustible material is packed into a given volume, which comes down to density. A cubic metre of oak contains far more wood fibre than a cubic metre of pine because oak's cellular structure is much tighter. More fibre means more fuel and more heat. This is why all the wood that burns hottest in the UK is hardwood: oak, beech, ash, hornbeam and birch all have significantly higher density than softwoods such as pine or spruce. Moisture content: the factor that matters more than species A BTU ranking assumes the wood is properly dried. Moisture content overrides species in determining actual heat delivery. At 30% moisture, a large proportion of a log's potential heat is lost to steam rather than warmth. A piece of ash at 15% moisture will outperform a piece of oak at 30% every time, despite oak's higher theoretical rating. This is why kiln dried logs deliver noticeably more heat than seasoned logs from the same species at higher moisture levels. UK Firewood Species Ranked by Heat Output The table below covers only species commercially available in the UK. Hickory and Osage orange appear in many international guides but are not sold as firewood here. BTU figures are approximate per full cord of kiln dried or well-seasoned wood. Species BTU per cord (approx) Density Ease of lighting Burn time per log UK availability Hornbeam 30M+ Very high Difficult Very long Rare / specialist only Oak 28M High Moderate Long (60–90 min) Widely available Beech 27M High Moderate Long Widely available Ash 24M High Easy Long (60–90 min) Widely available Birch 20M Medium–high Very easy Medium (30–45 min) Widely available Sycamore 19M Medium Easy Medium Available Chestnut 17M Medium Moderate Medium Available Pine (softwood) 15M Low Very easy Short Kindling use only Oak leads among widely available species, with beech close behind. Ash offers the best combination of heat output and ease of use for everyday burning. Hornbeam tops the table on BTU but its commercial scarcity makes it impractical as a primary fuel. Birch burns significantly hotter than softwoods and lights very easily, making it ideal for mixing or when rapid heat matters more than burn duration. Oak: the hottest widely available wood that burns in the UK Oak produces the highest heat output of any commonly sold UK firewood at approximately 28 million BTU per cord. Its exceptionally dense cellular structure delivers a long, sustained burn at high temperature, holding heat for 60 to 90 minutes or more per log. Oak is harder to ignite than ash or birch and requires good dry kindling and an established coal bed before loading. Kiln dried oak resolves some of this difficulty by ensuring the wood arrives below 15% moisture before delivery. Hornbeam: the hottest UK native wood you probably cannot buy Hornbeam is the densest native UK hardwood and burns hotter than oak per unit volume. It is not widely sold commercially because the trees are small and slow-growing, making large-scale harvesting uneconomical. If you have access to hornbeam from your own land or a specialist supplier it is excellent firewood, but for most UK households oak remains the practical benchmark for maximum heat. Beech and ash: high heat with different strengths Beech sits just below oak at around 27 million BTU per cord, burns steadily with minimal smoke and generates excellent coals. Ash follows at approximately 24 million BTU and is the most practical high-heat choice for everyday use. Its exceptional ease of lighting makes it suitable for open fires and stoves alike. Many experienced wood burner users keep ash as their primary fuel and reserve oak for the coldest evenings when maximum heat is the priority. Birch: hot ignition, bright flame, shorter burn time Birch produces around 20 million BTU per cord, ignites very easily and heats a room quickly. A birch log typically lasts 30 to 45 minutes compared to 60 to 90 minutes for oak or ash. It works well as part of a mixed load, establishing the fire and bringing the stove to temperature before denser logs are added. As a standalone fuel for a long evening, it requires more frequent loading than oak or ash. Browse our kiln dried hardwood logs, including oak, ash, birch and beech, with free delivery on orders over £100. How Kiln Drying Affects Heat Output Species sets the ceiling for heat. Moisture content determines how close to that ceiling each log gets. A kiln dried oak log and a seasoned oak log from the same tree are not equivalent in performance.   Kiln dried vs seasoned: the heat difference explained Kiln drying typically achieves 10 to 15% moisture content under controlled conditions. Air seasoning for 12 to 24 months typically achieves 18 to 25% depending on storage and conditions. At 15% moisture, approximately 85% of a log's energy is available as heat. At 25%, a larger proportion is consumed evaporating water before useful combustion begins. The kiln dried log burns hotter, lights more easily, produces less smoke and deposits less creosote. For a species like oak with high BTU potential, arriving at the lowest achievable moisture level is the most effective way to access that potential. Why Ready to Burn certification matters Ready to Burn is the UK certification standard confirming moisture content below 20% at point of sale. Woodsure provides the same assurance. Both mean the wood has been independently tested rather than relying on a supplier's claim. Checking for either certification is a more reliable predictor of heat performance than price or species label alone. Browse our kiln dried logs, certified Ready to Burn and Woodsure approved, with verified low moisture content across every delivery. Which Burns Hotter: Hardwood or Softwood? The hardwood and softwood distinction applies to every species comparison and determines the practical ceiling for heat output. Why hardwood produces more sustained heat Hardwoods from deciduous trees have significantly higher density than softwoods from coniferous trees. Higher density means more combustible material per log, translating directly to more heat and longer burn times. Hardwoods also produce better coals that continue radiating heat after the flame subsides, sustaining stove temperature between refuelling rather than dropping sharply when the visible flame dies. When softwood has a role: kindling and the larch exception Softwoods light quickly and bring a stove to temperature efficiently as kindling. As the sole fuel for an evening fire, they require constant attention. Larch is the notable exception: denser than most coniferous species, it produces heat output comparable to lower-ranking hardwoods and seasons faster than oak or ash. For households where premium hardwood is not accessible, kiln dried larch is a more practical alternative than pine or spruce. See more: Best Wood for Kindling in the UK: Species, Moisture and How to Use It Correctly Matching the Hottest Wood to Your Appliance The wood that burns hottest on paper is not always the most practical choice for every appliance. How heat is delivered matters as much as the total output per log. Wood burning stoves, open fires and fire pits Enclosed stoves exploit oak and beech most efficiently because their density and long burn times are fully utilised in an appliance that retains heat and controls airflow precisely. Establish the fire with birch or ash first, then load oak once the firebox is hot. Open fires lose more heat up the chimney and benefit from ash as the primary fuel: easier to sustain than oak without a very hot base. For outdoor fire pits, birch works best, with its bright flame and easy lighting. A birch and ash mix delivers warmth and atmosphere without the management demands of pure oak. See more: Best Wood for Firewood in the UK: Species Ranked by Heat, Burn Time and Appliance Getting the Most Heat from Whichever Wood You Choose Species and moisture content set the potential. A few practical habits ensure you reach it with every fire. Start with dry kindling and test moisture before loading Dense hardwoods need a well-established fire before they combust efficiently. Start with dry kindling and one or two smaller birch or ash logs to build the coal bed and firebox temperature. Adding a large oak log to a cold fire is the most common reason a high-quality log underperforms. Test the split face of any log with a moisture meter before burning: above 20% means the log will underperform regardless of species. Keep air supply fully open during establishment, then adjust once the fire is running to match the burn rate. See more: Will Wet Wood Burn? Yes – But Here’s What It’s Actually Costing You Conclusion Oak is the hottest-burning firewood widely available in the UK, with hornbeam technically hotter but rarely sold commercially. Beech is a close second and ash offers the best balance of heat and usability for everyday burning. Species sets the ceiling for heat output, but moisture content determines how close to that ceiling each fire reaches. Kiln dried hardwood from a certified supplier is the most reliable way to get both right in every delivery.

Every fire leaves ash behind, and most of it ends up in the bin without a second thought. If your log burner or fire pit runs on kiln dried hardwood, the fire ash you produce is clean, chemical-free and genuinely useful. This guide covers seven practical ways to put fire ash to work, how to handle and store it safely, and what types of ash should never leave the bin. Quick Answer Wood ash from a log burner or fire pit has several practical uses: it improves garden soil and compost, deters slugs and pests, cleans stove glass, polishes metals and de-ices paths in winter. Always allow ash to cool for at least 48 hours in a metal container before handling. Only use ash from untreated, natural wood such as kiln dried hardwood logs. Handle Fire Ash Safely First: What to Do Before Anything Else Before you use or dispose of fire ash, the handling stage matters more than most guides acknowledge. Getting this wrong can cause burns, start fires in waste bins, or create a carbon monoxide hazard inside the home. How long does fire ash take to cool completely? Fire ash can retain heat for much longer than it looks. A bed of ash that appears cold and grey on the surface can still contain live embers deep inside for 24 to 48 hours after the fire has gone out. The safe approach is to wait a full 48 hours before moving fire ash from a log burner or fire pit. If you need to clear the grate sooner, use a metal ash pan and transfer the contents to a metal ash bucket with a tight-fitting lid. Never use plastic containers, as residual heat can melt them and create a serious fire risk. The right container for collecting and storing ash A dedicated metal ash bucket is the correct tool for collecting fire ash from a stove or fireplace. Store it on a hard, non-combustible surface away from wooden floors and flammable materials such as kindling or paper. If you are storing ash for later garden use, keep the container dry. Wet ash clumps, loses some of its nutrient value and is harder to apply evenly. A bucket with a tight-fitting lid keeps it dry and prevents dust from dispersing indoors. Carbon monoxide risk when clearing the stove Residual smouldering in fire ash can continue releasing carbon monoxide after the visible fire has gone out. Always ventilate the room when clearing a stove, and never carry a warm ash bucket through the house without adequate airflow. Check that your carbon monoxide alarm is functioning before and during the heating season. This applies whether you burn kiln dried logs, seasoned wood or any other solid fuel. 7 Things You Can Do with Wood Ash Wood ash from kiln dried logs contains potassium, calcium, magnesium and trace elements that give it genuine practical value around the home and garden. The table below summarises each use at a glance. Use What it does Best for Caution Garden soil amendment Raises pH, adds potassium Acidic soils, brassicas, root veg Avoid acid-loving plants and alkaline soil Compost addition Adds minerals, balances pH Mixed compost heaps Thin layers only; too much disrupts bacteria Slug and pest deterrent Creates barrier insects avoid Flower beds, vegetable patches Reapply after rain; loses effect when wet Stove glass cleaner Mild abrasive removes soot Log burner glass doors Cold ash only; test on small area first Metal polish Mild abrasive paste with water Silver, pewter, tarnished metals Test on small area before full application Path de-icer Potassium melts ice, adds grip Icy paving and driveways Not on lawns or near acid-loving plants Oil and grease absorber Absorbs spills on hard surfaces Driveway, garage floor Sweep up after leaving overnight to absorb Garden and compost uses offer the most ongoing value for UK households with a log burner running through winter. Cleaning and household uses are practical for occasional needs, while the de-icer and oil absorber applications are situational but genuinely effective alternatives to commercial products. Garden soil and compost: the most valuable use Wood ash is alkaline with a pH of roughly 10 to 12. Applied to acidic soil, it raises pH and reduces the need for lime, while adding potassium that supports root development, flowering and fruiting. The Royal Horticultural Society recognises wood ash as a useful soil additive that can be dug directly into bare ground in autumn or added in thin layers to a compost heap to balance the acidity of grass clippings and kitchen waste. Apply no more than 70 to 100 grams per square metre per year. Spread when dry and avoid applying before rain, as nutrients wash away quickly from exposed ash. Slug deterrent, stove glass cleaner and metal polish A ring of dry wood ash around individual plants creates a barrier that slugs and snails are reluctant to cross, without the toxicity of salt or pellets. It dissolves in rain and needs reapplying, but costs nothing and leaves no chemical residue. Cold, dry ash mixed with a small amount of water forms a mild abrasive paste that removes soot from log burner glass effectively when applied with damp newspaper or a cloth. The same paste lifts tarnish from silver, pewter and copper. Rinse thoroughly after application in all cases. De-icing paths and absorbing oil spills The potassium content of wood ash gives it mild de-icing properties similar to grit salt, and the texture provides grip on icy surfaces. A sealed metal container of fire ash kept near the door can treat icy paving and steps quickly without needing a trip to the shops. For oil or grease spills on driveways or garage floors, dry ash poured over the spill and left overnight absorbs the liquid and can then be swept away cleanly, leaving the surface significantly cleaner than scrubbing alone. See more: Best Wood for Firewood in the UK: Species Ranked by Heat, Burn Time and Appliance Why Kiln Dried Wood Ash Is Cleaner and More Useful Not all fire ash is equal, and the quality of wood you burn directly affects the quality and safety of the ash you are left with. This distinction matters most for garden and household applications. Clean combustion from kiln dried logs produces purer ash Kiln dried hardwood burns at higher temperatures with more complete combustion than wet or unseasoned wood. More complete combustion means more of the wood is fully converted, leaving a finer, purer ash with better mineral concentration. The potassium and calcium content is more consistent, and the ash is free from the mould spores and fungal residue that can be present in ash from poorly seasoned wood stored in damp conditions. For garden use in particular, this cleaner ash delivers more reliable results. What ash from damp, green or treated wood may contain Wet or green wood that has not been properly dried burns incompletely, producing ash with more unburned carbon, lower nutrient concentration and a coarser texture. Ash from treated, painted, varnished or pressure-treated timber can contain heavy metals and preservative residues that are harmful to soil biology and edible crops. If you are unsure of the origin or treatment history of any wood you have burned, treat the ash as general waste rather than a usable resource. The hazard is not always visible in the ash itself. Browse our kiln dried logs, certified by Woodsure and BSL and produced from natural untreated hardwood, available for delivery across the UK. How to Dispose of Fire Ash in the UK When you produce more fire ash than you can use, disposing of it correctly prevents bin fires and keeps council collections running without problems. Wood ash: general waste bin, garden bin or compost Cold wood ash can go into your general household waste bin in most UK council areas, provided it is fully cooled and double-bagged to prevent it dispersing when the bin is emptied. Many councils also accept cold wood ash in the garden waste bin or at a household waste recycling centre in the garden waste container. Rules vary by local authority, so check your council website if you are unsure. The double-bag requirement for the black bin is the most consistently applied rule across UK councils. Coal ash and why it must go in general waste only Coal ash is chemically different from wood ash. It contains higher concentrations of sulphur compounds and heavy metals that are harmful to soil and should never be added to compost or applied to the garden. If you use a multi-fuel stove and burn a mix of wood and coal, treat the mixed ash as coal ash and dispose of it in the general waste bin once fully cooled. The same applies to charcoal ash from a BBQ, which should not be composted or used as a soil amendment regardless of how it looks. See more: How to Dry Out Wet Firewood Fast in the UK: Methods, Timelines and When to Give Up What You Should Never Do with Fire Ash Understanding what to avoid is as important as knowing the uses. Certain ash types and applications can damage soil, harm plants or create safety and health hazards. Never use ash from treated, painted or varnished wood Burning treated, painted or varnished timber releases toxic compounds in the smoke and leaves hazardous residues in the ash. This includes pressure-treated fence posts, old painted furniture and any wood with a coloured or decorative finish. The ash should be treated as hazardous waste, disposed of in the general waste bin once fully cooled, and never applied to soil, compost or any surface where it could contact edible crops or enter groundwater. Do not apply wood ash to alkaline soil or acid-loving plants The liming effect of fire ash that benefits acidic soil becomes a problem on ground that is already neutral or alkaline. Applying ash to soil with a pH above 7 can further reduce the availability of nutrients such as iron and manganese. Plants that require acidic conditions, including blueberries, rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and heathers, should never have wood ash applied near their root zone. Test your soil pH before using ash as a soil amendment, particularly in areas with naturally chalky or limestone-based ground. Coal and BBQ charcoal ash does not belong in the garden Coal ash and charcoal ash look similar to wood ash but behave very differently in soil. Their chemical composition can disrupt soil biology and introduce harmful compounds with repeated application. Neither offers the potassium and calcium benefits of clean wood ash. If you are unsure whether your ash comes from wood, coal or charcoal, dispose of it in general waste rather than risk applying contaminated material to your garden or compost. See more: 5 Signs Your Kiln Dried Logs Have Been Stored Incorrectly (And How to Fix It) Browse our kiln dried hardwood logs, available in bulk bags and nets with free delivery on orders over £100. Conclusion Fire ash from kiln dried hardwood logs is clean, chemical-free and practically useful when handled correctly. The garden and compost applications offer the best ongoing value for UK households burning through winter. Safe handling with a metal container and 48 hours of cooling time protects against accidents. Knowing which ash types to avoid in the garden keeps your soil healthy. For everything that cannot be used, the general waste bin handles the rest once ash is fully cold and double-bagged.

You have wet logs and you need a fire tonight. The short answer is yes, wet wood will burn, but the question worth asking is what it is actually doing to your stove, your chimney and your wallet. Understanding exactly what happens when wet wood burns, and what the alternatives are, turns a frustrating evening into a straightforward decision. Quick Answer Yes, wet wood will burn, but very poorly. Wood with moisture content above 20% produces excessive smoke, releases only a fraction of its potential heat and deposits creosote inside your flue with every fire. In the UK, selling wet wood is illegal under Ready to Burn regulations, though burning it at home is not banned outright. The real cost is in wasted fuel and chimney damage. What Happens When Wet Wood Burns Most people assume wet wood simply burns a little less well. The reality is more significant. Every log you put on the fire goes through a predictable sequence of events, and wet wood hijacks that sequence from the moment it hits the flames. Where the heat goes: the energy cost of burning wet wood When wet wood burns, the fire's energy does not go into heating your room. It goes into evaporating the water trapped inside the wood first. A freshly cut log can contain 40 to 50% moisture by weight, and even at 20% moisture a meaningful portion of every log's energy is consumed driving off that water as steam before any useful heat reaches you. The heat that should be warming your living room is spent boiling water inside the log, which is why a fire built on wet wood feels weak and struggles to sustain itself. Why wet wood produces so much smoke Efficient combustion requires high temperature. Wet wood cannot reach those temperatures because evaporation keeps drawing energy away from the burn. The result is incomplete combustion: the wood smoulders rather than burns cleanly, releasing large quantities of smoke loaded with unburned particles. This smoke contributes to indoor and outdoor air pollution, which is why the UK government targeted wet wood sales in its Clean Air Strategy. That same smoke also carries unburned wood gases upward through your flue, where the second major problem begins. Creosote: the hidden danger building in your flue As smoke from damp firewood travels up your chimney, it cools. The unburned gases condense on the cooler surfaces of the flue as creosote, a sticky, tar-like substance that builds up with every fire. In thin layers, creosote requires more frequent sweeping. In thicker deposits, it becomes a serious fire hazard. Creosote is flammable, and a chimney fire burning through a creosote-coated flue can reach temperatures that crack the liner and spread to the building structure. Flue liner replacement typically costs between £800 and £2,000 for a standard installation. Wet Wood vs Kiln Dried: What the Numbers Show The difference between wet wood and properly kiln dried firewood is measurable across every performance metric that matters to a wood burner user. Wet Wood (above 30%) Seasoned (around 20%) Kiln Dried (below 15%) Heat output Very low Good Excellent Smoke produced Very high Low Very low Ease of lighting Difficult Good Easy Creosote risk High Low Very low UK legal to sell No Only if certified Yes (Ready to Burn) Cost per unit heat Highest Moderate Best value Wet wood at a lower purchase price costs the most per unit of actual heat delivered. Because it burns inefficiently, you need significantly more of it to produce the same warmth as kiln dried logs. Factor in the accelerated chimney sweep schedule and potential stove or flue damage, and the apparent saving disappears quickly. Browse our kiln dried logs, certified Ready to Burn and available for delivery across the UK. Is Burning Wet Wood Illegal in the UK? There is genuine confusion about what UK law says on this topic. Some households worry they are breaking the law every time they burn a damp log. The actual legal position is more specific than most guides explain. The Ready to Burn regulations: what they actually cover The UK government's Ready to Burn regulations, introduced in 2021 under the Environment Act, cover the sale of wet wood, not the act of burning it. Under these regulations, it is illegal for suppliers to sell wet wood with moisture content above 20% in volumes under two cubic metres. The regulation targets the supply chain, not individual households burning their own wood at home. Smoke Control Areas: where stricter rules apply The position changes in Smoke Control Areas, which cover most urban areas in England, Scotland and Wales. In these areas, you are required to use an exempt appliance or burn an authorised fuel. Wet wood is not an authorised fuel, and burning it in a Smoke Control Area in an appliance that is not exempt can result in a fixed penalty notice. Your local council can confirm whether your property falls within one. What this means for you as a homeowner For most rural and suburban households outside a Smoke Control Area, burning wet wood at home is not illegal. It is, however, damaging to your appliance, potentially dangerous due to creosote build-up, and a waste of money. The law targeting its sale exists precisely because the consequences of burning wet wood are serious enough to warrant regulation. See more: How to Dry Out Wet Firewood Fast in the UK: Methods, Timelines and When to Give Up If You Must Burn Wet Wood Tonight: An Emergency Protocol If you have no dry wood available and no alternative heat source, damp logs can get you through a cold night with the right approach. This is not a sustainable practice, but it is a manageable emergency measure. Step 1: Build a very hot base fire with dry kindling first Logs with high moisture will not ignite from cold. You need a substantial, hot fire using dry kindling and any dry material available before attempting to add damp logs. The firebox needs to reach a high operating temperature, producing a solid bed of glowing coals, before high-moisture wood has any chance of catching. A weak base fire will simply produce steam and smoke with no useful heat. Step 2: Position wet logs to pre-dry before adding to the fire Place wet logs close to but not on the fire for 15 to 20 minutes before you need them. The radiant heat will begin evaporating surface moisture from the log. When you eventually add it to the fire, it will be drier and will perform meaningfully better. Never lean logs directly against the stove as a drying method, as this creates a fire hazard. Step 3: Manage airflow and plan a chimney check Keep the air supply to the stove fully open when burning high-moisture logs. Restricted airflow lowers combustion temperature further, worsening both heat output and creosote production. After any extended period of burning damp wood, arrange a chimney sweep as soon as possible. See more: Best Wood for Kindling in the UK: Species, Moisture and How to Use It Correctly How to Tell If Your Wood Is Too Wet to Burn Not all damp wood is equally problematic. A log that got rained on yesterday is in a different condition from a green log cut last month. Knowing where your logs sit helps you decide how to proceed. The moisture meter: the only reliable method A moisture meter pressed into the split face of a log gives an accurate reading in seconds. Below 20% confirms the wood meets Ready to Burn standard. Between 20% and 25%, performance will be reduced but the wood is not in the worst category. Above 30%, you are in the territory of very wet wood that will produce significant smoke and minimal heat. Always test from the split face rather than the outer bark, which dries faster and gives a falsely encouraging reading. The sound test and weight check Two logs knocked together firmly produce a sharp crack when dry and a dull thud when wet. The difference is reliable and requires no equipment. Wet logs also feel noticeably heavier than dry logs of the same species and size, because they are carrying the weight of the water inside them. What a reading of 20 to 25% versus 30% or above means in practice At 20 to 25% moisture, the wood will light with good kindling and produce a reasonable fire, though with more smoke than kiln dried logs. Between 25% and 30%, lighting is difficult and performance is poor. Above 30%, the fire will struggle to sustain itself without constant attention and large amounts of dry kindling. The Long-Term Cost of Burning Wet Wood A single evening of burning damp logs is an inconvenience. A season of it is a financial decision with measurable consequences that arrive as bills months later. Chimney sweep costs accelerated by creosote Households burning damp or unseasoned logs regularly accumulate creosote significantly faster, often requiring two or three sweeps per heating season. Over five years, that difference in sweeping costs alone can represent several hundred pounds. Stove damage and repair bills Wood burning stoves are designed to operate at high combustion temperatures. Forcing them to run at lower temperatures for extended periods accelerates wear on seals, glass and internal components. Stove door seals typically cost £20 to £60 to replace. Internal baffles and fire bricks can cost £50 to £150 per component. A stove run on high-moisture wood for several seasons may need significant servicing before it can operate safely again. Why kiln dried logs cost less per unit of heat The purchase price of kiln dried logs is higher per bag than unseasoned or wet wood. The cost per unit of actual heat delivered is lower, because kiln dried logs release their energy efficiently rather than wasting it on evaporation. A household burning kiln dried logs also buys fewer bags to achieve the same warmth and faces lower maintenance costs. Browse our kiln dried hardwood logs, available in bulk bags and nets with free delivery on orders over £100. See more: 5 Signs Your Kiln Dried Logs Have Been Stored Incorrectly (And How to Fix It) Conclusion Wet wood will burn, but the cost goes well beyond a disappointing fire. Every session with damp logs wastes heat, accelerates creosote build-up and shortens the life of your stove and flue. In an emergency, the protocol above can get you through a night. For everything else, kiln dried logs certified to the Ready to Burn standard remove the problem entirely and cost less per unit of heat over a full heating season.